A Crash Course in Fishkeeping

THE AQUARIUM

 Whether for school or home, choose the largest aquarium that is feasible. A larger volume of water is less prone to fluctuations in quality and temperature. More fish may be kept in a larger aquarium and choosing them is half the fun! It is easier to achieve a balanced environment in a larger body of water and maintenance will therefore be reduced.

A NOTE ABOUT GOLDFISH BOWLS

Most goldfish kept in bowls have a very limited life expectancy! Bowls are just too small They are very difficult to filter and therefore need to be emptied and cleaned frequently which in itself is detrimental to the fish. A good alternative to a goldfish bowl is a small filtered aquarium, which allows more fish to be kept and actually requires less maintenance.

POSITIONING THE AQUARIUM

By placing the aquarium out of direct sunlight, excessive algal growth can be avoided. Close proximity to a power point is necessary. Avoid areas of heavy foot traffic or a position close to a constantly slamming door. Continual vibrations are very stressful to fish and it is for this reason that the fridge top or speaker should not be used as an aquarium stand. Ensure the aquarium stand is level and sturdy.

FILTRATION

There are many types of filter available. They can be roughly divided into those driven by an air pump and the more efficient power filters. Air driven filters such as undergravel filters and 'bubble' filters are suitable for very small aquariums or for those on a budget that don't mind only lightly stocking their aquariums.

Power filters have a far superior output and are usually totally silent. They allow more fish to be kept and have a minimum of messy cords and tubes. Each filter will have a recommendation for the aquarium size it is suited to. It usually pays to go up a size from manufacturers recommendations as these tend to be a little on the conservative side. 

LIGHTING

There are many benefits that can be derived from good lighting. Firstly, the fish look a lot brighter and nicer! Even tropical fish look quite dull without lighting. Fluorescent tubes such as 'power glo' or 'life glo' simulate sunlight and the UV they produce is beneficial for both fish and plants. Lighting can also reduce the growth of brown algae that appears in low light situations.

Lighting should roughly follow the hours of daylight, and be left on for no more than 8-10 hours daily. This allows the fish to sleep and prevents excessive green algae. Most fluorescent tubes should be replaced after approximately ten months as the UV component of the spectrum starts to wane at this point.

HEATING

A heater/thermostat sold as one unit is preferable to the older style models which are wired together. The heater should be completely submersible and be easy to adjust. Place the heater on an angle at the back of the aquarium. If placed vertically, the heater is likely to continually turn off the thermostat with the rising heat. The addition of a thermometer is also important to monitor the temperature so as to ensure the heater is working correctly.

MAINTAINING THE AQUARIUM

Partial water changes are key to maintaining successful aquaria. Even the most efficient filter does not negate the need for regular water changes. The purpose of these is to dilute out the end products of the filtration process such as nitrate and to remove chemicals like phosphate which contribute to algal problems. Without this regular maintenance, the quality of the fishes environment slowly declines leading to numerous health problems. 30 -50% fortnightly is a good rule to maintain water quality without upsetting the balance of the aquarium.

Gravel cleaning siphons are available to carry out water changes. They have a wide tube at one end which allows water changes to be made at the same time as the gavel is cleaned, with minimal disturbance to fish. Clean any algae off the glass with an algae pad or scraper at this time.

When new water is added, a dechlorinating agent must be added to the new water. Another beneficial additive at this time is one of the preparations of nitrifying bacteria and a small amount of salt as a disease preventative (salt does not evaporate, and therefore should only be added when water is replaced).

Filter inserts such as carbon and various resins generally need replacing every 6-8 weeks for best results. When rinsing any filter media for further use, be sure to use dechlorinated water so as not to destroy beneficial filter bacteria.

The regular use of test kits to monitor water quality are a useful form of 'insurance' for the aquarium. In particular, ammonia, nitrite and pH should be checked often in the freshwater aquarium.